Ringing the temple bell as the bus with mourners arrives for the memorial service at the temple

Some local residents know the temple of Gotanjo-ji as the "cat temple" because strays, abandoned, and unwanted felines are welcome there at any age and in any condition. One briefly comes into view as the camcorder moves from the bell platform across the parking lot to the bus where mourners are stepping off.

Buddhist temples in rural Japan vary in their scope and depth of engagement with parishioners. Some were founded with the labor and money of a core group of families long ago and have grown as the descendants increase. Others, particular Zen temples like this one, came about as a good deed by a single benefactor or a small number of founders who endow it, thus making it independent of ongoing contributions and involvement of parishioners. The case of Gotanjo-ji (literally, 'birthday temple') stands out from many other places of worship created in the most recent generation or two. The name refers to one of Soto-Zen's early leaders many hundred years ago who was born only a short bicycle ride from here. Looking at the memorial markers and family tombstones, there are many that are non-traditional in theme or design; for example, carved with "arigatou" (thanks or grateful) instead of a Buddhist phrase. Many of the markers seem to refer to individuals instead of family units, as is traditional. Furthermore, those one-person markers frequently give a home location of a prefecture other than Fukui. In other words, for people without ties to another place or a family unit, this temple welcomes them to reserve a spot for their cremains, whether they are a member of this temple's congregation or not.

Chanting a sutra at the head temple of Pure Land Buddhism of Japan in Kyoto

The strong voice of the priest carries into the air from inside this prayer hall up on the hillside where the temple complex has been for hundreds of years. He punctuates the rhythmic text with a floor bell at first. Then later he uses the hard, clear sound of sticks to accelerate the beat of the text.

This Saturday afternoon in early November is the national holiday called Bunka-no-Hi (Culture Day). In addition to followers of the Pure Land Buddhism from other temples around Japan, there are visitors from other branches of Buddhism in Japan or from overseas, as well as people with no direct connection to Buddhism who wish to walk the grounds and see some of the notable parts of the place.

The lantern speaks silently

click photo for full-size image: Japanese temple lantern in Edinburgh at National Museum of Scotland (12/2017 photos)

 James Douglas Fletcher (d 1927) bought a matching pair of bronze lanterns from a Japanese temple in 1902 (Meiji 35) for his oriental garden on Black Island at Rosehaugh. Moving from the context of concept and creation in Buddhist Japan to recreational private garden stretches the range of meanings of the lanterns greatly. The fact that the ca. 1800-1850 artistic work was away from the natural and man-made calamities of the 20th century allowed this work to live on and speak to today's artists, Buddhists, and gardeners.
Meaning began with the wider context of traditions of lantern makers generally for temples. Some person or group made the decision to cast these, then artisan drafted the detail or was left to his own devices, then recipient of the piece chose a display location. For each generation of priest and parishioner the meaning may have shifted little by little. And for outsiders who were non-parishioners or non-Japanese altogether, then the meaning was simplified to surfaces and shapes alone. The context for creation, worship, and admiration fades away and instead the outsider sees just colors and lines.
Finally, even the transplanted meaning of private ownership on the opposite side of the planet gives way to museum acquisition and display near the entryway at street level. Going from the point of deciding upon a commission In Japan to today in the hallway of the national museum of Scotland is a vast leap, indeed.